Earning enough acquaintance with the specifics surrounding a straight razor is your best bet in getting started to finally know how to choose a straight razor. We shall commence with the guide on buying a straight razor:
1. Choose a Straight Razor with a Wooden Handlea
Technically, a straight razor’s handle is called the “scales.” It is two separate strips that are often held along by brass pins and washers, such as those found on the shoulder or tang of the straight razor that allows it to pivot into an open and close position. Most straight razors have two pins. In bigger and heavier razors, as many as three pins are needed to provide better strength and stability.
Here at Dongshen, we recommend getting a straight razor with a wooden handle because it looks classy and it feels warm and comfortable to the touch. While cold metal is perfectly fine, good-quality timber wood has some extra properties that help keep the shaving experience luxurious.
2. Choose a Blade Made of Stainless Steel
Carbon steel and stainless steel are the two types of metal usually used for the blade in the modern straight razor.
However, between the two, most manufacturers prefer carbon steel because it has softer properties and is therefore easy to work with to produce a very sharp blade.
But if you want a nice straight razor that is durable, pick one with a stainless steel blade. It is significantly harder than carbon steel, so it will stay sharp longer than carbon. It is also quick to clean and is rust-resistant, unlike carbon steel.
Recent research also studied how hair deforms steel. Although it is 50 times harder than human hair, steel still gets dull after several shaves.
People often blamed this on the poor craftsmanship and low-quality materials manufacturers use in creating the blade. But we found out is that you cut off your razor’s lifetime through your shaving techniques and because of the microscopic roughness on the edges of the blade.
Hence, when choosing a straight razor, it is necessary to only look for blades from quality steel, like a Japanese stainless steel blade with a hardness of 61-65 HRC, similarly to what you can find here at Dongshen.
The only downside with stainless steel is that it takes more effort to hone it than carbon steel. But since it stays sharper longer, it will not require frequent honing.
3. Pick a Blade with a Dutch Point
A razor blade with a Dutch blade endpoint is best for first-time users for safety reasons. It wears a rounded edge, protecting you from nicks, cuts, and other possible injuries while shaving. Hence, its edge is a great tool to use for easing oneself into a straight razor shaving experience.
In terms of practicality, the Dutch’s round point is more forgiving to sudden changes in angle or direction, so one gets fewer chances of getting significant nicks and cuts.
4. Pick a Blade with the Right Size
Also known as blade height, the size of a blade matters when using a straight razor. How big the razor naturally pertains to just how much it will weigh can affect the total amount of it when you hold it in your hand. Razor heights range from 8/8 inch (which is the highest) to 3/8.
Those sporting heavier beards prefer to use bigger sizes, where 3/8 sizes are compatible with trimming mustaches. To begin with, a 5/8 or 6/8 blade for most people is a perfect size.
5. Get the Correct Grind
Manufacturers make razors in several different grinds based on purpose. Generally, most shaving pros recommend the hollow grind as the best overall grind for the average shaver.
Hollow ground blades have the thinnest grind available, which makes them easier to use and maintain. A full wedge grind may be more appropriate for thicker and coarser beards because they are better for heavy-duty use in shaving.
These are simply guidelines that will reduce your set of choices. However, do consider the fact that using a straight razor is not an overnight skill. Handling one requires getting used to. No one can master the grip you need as soon as you finish buying a straight razor.
Post time: Jul-17-2023